Four summers ago, a young chef named Jose Luis Chavez began leveraging the poke craze and the salad-bowl trend into a string of fast-casual ceviche bars. He began with a counter in the Gansevoort Market food hall called Mission Ceviche; there is now another in Canal Street Market and a third is supposed to open in Norwalk, Conn., later this year. At all locations, the stock-in-trade is citrus-marinated raw fish with sweet potatoes and kernels of chubby Andean corn, in both its soft and crunchy forms.

This is of course the standard Peruvian formula, but Mr. Chavez had the inspiration of serving his ceviche in a clear plastic bowl over a base of salad, rice or, for a dollar more, quinoa. The supplemental ingredients make a plausible desk lunch out of a dish that some New Yorkers still aren’t quite sure what to do with.

The surprising thing about Mission Ceviche’s salad bowls is that they taste like real Peruvian food. The raw fish is firm and cold and neatly cut up into solid pieces that hold their shape. The leche de tigre marinade in Mr. Chavez’s “ceviche clasico” is a bright and precise cocktail of lime and rocoto chiles, although you might wish that the rocotos had been applied with a little less restraint.

You get a higher-caliber shot of spice, this time from aji amarillo chiles, in the ceviche mixto, a combination of octopus, shrimp and fluke enveloped in a creamy, goldenrod-colored leche de tigre. The clasico is accessorized with sweet potato puree; the mixto gets avocado purée, too. The purees are piped out of pastry bags like buttercream roses on a wedding cake, and they are delicious.